Guatemala | Knotted together

Those who know us, and all of you do, heard about our particular passion for travel planning. Short of actually visiting the places we are about to visit, we go through most motions. Mulling over the 1 negative review on TripAdvisor. Comparing flight comparison websites. Constructing intricate macro-linked Excel planning sheets. It most definitely takes away some of the discovery and randomness that comes with getting off the bus (ekhmm…plane) and trying to figure everything out (but then, let’s be honest, real “discovery” these days would require drowning your iPhone in a toilet many months before the trip). What it does offer, apart from avoiding avoidable travel nightmares is a sense of excitement the seeps in months before arriving at your destination.

All of that is fine when you travel for 7 days, not 7 months. So, despite our valiant efforts and just before Christmas, we landed in Guatemala, with close to no plan and no awareness of the country beyond the platitudes. What we did know is that Antigua is a pretty colonial town and that Atitlan is a picturesque lake.

My wonkish side quickly took over and absorbed a “life-sustaining” modicum of stories about the country. It turns out that Guatemala stands out for a number of reasons. Some bad - it is one of the world’s officially most dangerous countries with over 100 murders reported daily a few years back. Some fascinating - in contrast to nearby Costa Rica, it is still proudly Mayan, with over 21 dialects spoken and local women donning traditional huipil dresses on a daily basis. Some preposterous - much like in Iran, the US government orchestrated the coup d’etat in 1954 that brought down a democratically elected president and contributed to one of the longest civil wars in Latin America, to be waged for 36 years. The preposterousness is compounded by the fact that the coup was partially caused by the United Fruit Company, a banana-producing behemoth that did not like some of the policies of the president. Banana republics bid you welcome.

Useless knowledge in tow, we made our first decision and signed up for an intense 4 days of Spanish lessons. As our days became calmingly routine in between lessons, homework, and cafes, we allowed ourselves to fall for the touristy Antigua. We loved pretty much everything - multicolour facades of the low-rise houses, a cornucopia of handicrafts, an abundance of hipster cafes and restaurants, the exact ‘right’ amount of people and, to top it off, three volcanoes towering above the cityscape. It was so hard to leave that we quickly decided to come back after our Christmas break in Atitlan (which we write about here).

While I was slowly looking to our next destination, Marta was resolved to get to know the country better. As a result, we were soon on our way to Quetzaltenango, the second largest city but a world away from both Antigua and Guatemala City. The city itself was appealing through what it did not have - no tourists, no busy plazas, no tourist-oriented cafes. Just local street vendors where we could indulge in ever more fried delicacies. The crowds came once we left the city boundaries and made our way to the market in San Francisco el Alto. Held weekly, it attracts buyers and customers from the nearby villages, selling everything from beans to living piglets and cows. As we navigated the narrow passageways, what stood out in particular how traditions are knotted together in one place. Mayan alters and offering fires on the steps of the local Catholic church, itself coloured bright yellow and adorned with Mayan deities. And just maybe, this is why we came to love Guatemala. While beset with problems, it opens itself to you with no need for books or long historical treatise. It’s enough to just look.

Better get used to this volcano, you will see it in almost every shot from Antigua.

Hi again!

It's called Volcan Agua.

Antigua before 8am - no people, no cars. Volcan Agua still where it was yesterday.

One of many ruined churches in Antigua.

Mayan altar in front of a church.

Graveyards in Guatemala look very joyful.

Dona Fernanda. Marta bought a huipil from her.

Biggest market in Guatemela.

Incense burning on Mayan altar made it difficult to breathe.

Local church - a mix between Mayan and Christian beliefs.

We also climbed a volcano close to Antigua. The cloud over Marta's head perfectly depicts her mood on the way up.

Still, she made it to the top.

And the views of the Volcan Fuego were spectacular.