Bhutan | Land of Thunder Dragon

Our first encounter with Bhutan happened in Nepal. We had just completed our second Himalayan trek and struck a conversation with an elderly Swiss traveller who was all too eager to share his life stories. In one of them, he recounted his trip to the once-forbidden kingdom which happened, to his memory, two years after television was introduced to the country. Thinking him senile, or just exceedingly old, we checked and realised that indeed it was not until 1999 that Bhutanese were allowed TVs. 

Bhutan turned out to be a country where the myth dwarfs reality, where every visitor (us including) suffers from a profound confirmation bias in their efforts to prove that this small Himalayan kingdom is indeed the happiest country on earth. Statistics and anecdotes often come to the rescue. Bhutanese constitution stipulates that at least 60% of the country needs to be permanently forested. This gives it the enviable title of the only carbon-negative country in the world. All stray dogs are vaccinated and seem to exist in a constant state of bliss (confirmation bias strikes again). There are no traffic lights in the entire country, though not because the locals found them impersonal, as the Lonely Planet guide would like you to believe. Health system and education up to college are free for the entire population. Rubbish, especially in comparison to Nepal, is scarce and bins feature pieces of cute propaganda such as “cleanliness is godliness”.

You can be oblivious to all of it and still arrive at a similar conclusion just from looking around. The first thing that struck us as we landed in Thimpu was a pleasing uniformity. All buildings must be constructed with multi-coloured wood frontages, small arched windows, and sloping roofs. Most people wear local dresses - a knee-length robe for men (gho) and ankle-length sari-like garment for women (kira). Each larger city is dominated by a dzong, a local headquarters of both religious and civil authorities. Life of each small village revolves around multiple temples, each performing a distinct function in the life of the community.

Strict adherence to rules applies to tourists as well. In fact, Bhutan is known most often for two things - its Gross National Happiness index and the hefty price it charges each visitor for every day they spend there. The only consolation is that it comes with all the bells and whistles - guide, driver, accommodation, food. Pretty much anything but alcohol, sadly.

Speaking of guides, ours seemed to be the natural extension of the country. Reverently dressed in gho, he was probably the first guide we encountered who would regale us more with stories than histories. We learned about demons fighting Guru Rinpoche, evil spirits taking the form of mermaids, witches flaying the skin off young men, haunted forests, lotus flowers giving birth to demigods. Everything but the boring history of who did what where when why. In fact, one of the more appealing aspects of the Bhutanese society that we caught a glimpse of was the importance of folk beliefs in their daily lives - the most amusing example being penises painted all over residential buildings to ensure fertility for the family.

And yet, with all its undeniable charm, Bhutan has not escaped the challenges of modernity. Youth unemployment remains high as education brought about the increase in expectations unmatched by an increase in opportunities. The country is sandwiched between India and China and only recently faced a border standoff between the two powers that, according to some, was the closest incident to open conflict in years. The economy is entirely dependent on India’s demand and aid, with the majority of the population still relying on subsistence farming for their livelihood. All of these issues have now to be dealt with by one of the world’s youngest democracies after introduced this form of government to the country less than ten years ago.

We left Bhutan charmed - by its care for the environment, reverence for history and traditions,  far-sightedness in some of its policies and desire to not let go of its ways as it continuously adapts to the modern challenges. We are fans. 

Stumbled on an archery tournament on our first day in Thimpu

Local paper workshop

Motivational talk Bhutanese-style

Fertility handicraft, just in case it was not clear

Exam time at a local monastery

Blessing ceremony for the local taxi

White manidhar prayer flags are a way to remember the dead

Monks making ceremonial offering cakes

Even more flags

Decidedly too excited about a picnic

Local Tsechu festival in Jakar

Yet another dzong

Paro Taktsang, the famous of them all

Tsa Tsas, small 'stupas', moulded from the cremation sites' ash, are a way to memorialise those who passed away

Propaganda continues (if not grammar)

Saved the most embarrassing for last